Zendogs: Week 8

17 October 2016
It was a sad start to the day as we had to say goodbye to Solene and the children. We had said goodbye to Gregg the night before as he was up very early for work. Val went to school with the boys and I took Madeleine to nursery.

As soon as we got back it was packing and then making our way to Victoria station to get the train back to Birchington on Sea where we had left the van. We got back mid afternoon and I managed to get a quick haircut before we set off for Dover. It was a Turkish barbers and Val wasn't impressed with the result but it was almost the last chance before the Ferry tomorrow.

Our first stop was at a wild camping spot at St Margaret's at Cliff (51°09′25.16″N 01°23′34.35″E) at the Dover Patrol Monument. We parked up looking across the Chanel towards France. There were signs saying private road and no overnight parking but I would have quite happily stayed, however, we had a couple of alternatives in Dover itself which we decided to take a look at.

We checked out the car park in the town centre which was free between 5pm and 9am which looked good but then we tried the Esplanade which was a beautiful location with a sea View and parking was free between the same times. We decided on the latter taking a risk with the road noise.
Maison Dieu Road Car Park: 51°07′43" N 01°18′41"E
Esplanade: 51°07′15"N 01°18′48"E

We had wifi from the iBoost which seemed to be pointed out to sea. We had the radio to listen to the football. I suppose a clean sheet at Anfield and a point won is a good result. After the foot tie it was in the scratcher for an early bath. Happy campers.

18 October 2016

We woke to a beautiful view of the Chanel after a quiet night on the Esplanade. I would use the same spot again without hesitation.

We were packed up pretty quickly and joined the queue for the ferry at about 8:45. Our departure time was 10:15 but they let us get the 9:25 sailing which was good because we were going to loose an hour with the time difference.

We had a calm crossing and disembarked in light rain which quickly turned heavy. It took us about four hours to cover the 220k to Montville close to Rouen avoiding the toll roads. It probably took thirty minutes longer to get there but there was a lot of motorway and dual carriageway. The last 15k was on rural D roads through lovely countryside displaying all the colours of autumn.

The Tom that knows everything got us exactly to our Aire and we parked up in a level spot in good order amongst the other happy campers. We had a walk round the small lake and then the village and then watched Pointless on the towns free wifi.

Montville Aire: 49°32′50″N 01°04′21″E

After dinner we settled in for a night with some reading and some more of the free wifi and I switched the radio on to see what I could pick up. Would you believe I could listen to 5 live no problem. Happy days.

19 October 2016

We woke late with the hours difference, it was 08:15 in the UK. By the time we had packed up and got on the road it was approaching 11:30, lazy so and so's.

We headed to Rouen which was only 20k away and followed Tom who knows everywhere to a Lidl with no car park and nowhere to pull in. Then we followed him to a fictitious Aire that was supposed to be 600 metres from the city centre. Third time lucky he lad us to an Aire by the River Seine a short cycle ride from the tourist spots.

After some lunch we jumped on the bikes into the centre, locked them up and walked round the sites, that were many. Our first stop was Norte Damme Cathedral, there was that much to see we could have stayed all day. We spent the whole afternoon looking round and visited Abbey St-Ouen, Églis Saint-Maclou, Le Vieux Marché which were the main highlights. After that we strolled back to the van picking up some water and crisps on the way.

We decided to stay the night as it was about 170k to our next destination and it was getting too late to move on. It was a chicken ruby for dinner washed down with a nice vino and a nip of A 12 year old, extra matured Glenmorangie. Tickety Boo, can life get any better?

Rouen Aire: 49°25′46.72″N 01°06′34.51″E

Val's factoid: Richard the Lionheart's heart is buried with his brother in Rouen Cathedral. It was the custom of the time to bury different parts of the body in different places. His entrails and brain are buried in an Abbey in Chattoux and the rest of him is entombed at Fontevraud.

20 October 2016

We were up reasonably early and on the road at 10:01 following the Piper's son' directions ably assisted by the co-pilot and chief navigator Val. They took us out of Rouen through the Industrialised Zone and we were soon into the countryside with all of its autumn colours. I spotted my first mistletoe of the trip, a common site on French roads.

Val's factoid: the parasite Mistletoe grows on a range of trees including willow, apple and oak. Mistletoe is a plant that grows on range of trees including willow, apple and oak trees. The tradition of hanging it in the house goes back to the times of the ancient Druids. It is supposed to possess mystical powers which bring good luck to the household and wards off evil spirits. It was also used as a sign of love and friendship in Norse mythology and that's where the custom of kissing under Mistletoe comes from.

After some planning last night we decided to change our route and head for a small aire about 6km from Orleans. We arrived late after some shopping in Lidl but we did buy our first cans of Finkbrau, 10 for €3.70.

Aire La Chapelle Saint Mesmin: 47°53′07″N 01°50′22"E

After a good walk first along the Loire River and then into the local village we got back to the van and because of the hour difference Val got to watch Pointless. The rest of the evening was spent enjoying another Chicken Ruby with a bit of extra kick. The Man Utd match was on BT Sport 2 which was available on wifi in a good quality stream. Happy days.

21 October 2016

We woke in darkness at eight bells. After breakfast we set sail down the river on our bikes and moored in the centre of Orleans old town. The Loire River was just as beautiful as the last time we travelled alongside it.

We strolled around taking in the sights. From the outside, the Cathedral looked magnificent and it was just as good on the inside. I was happy that it was out of season otherwise the tourists would have been tenfold.

We had a look at the famous Hotel Groslot, inside the splendour of days gone by was still there for all to see. Then it was off to find the statue of Joan of Arc astride her trusty steed.

We got lost cycling back to the van on the road and were rescued by the sight of some towering cranes that we walked past yesterday. I spotted them from the main road and with the odd deviation we were home and dry.

After a late lunch and about 5 minutes before our 24 hour parking expired we set coordinates for an Aire at Chatearoux about 140km away. Val had the barrier lifted with a couple of minutes to spare and we were out heading for La Poste. We bought a postcard in Rouen and have been searching for a post box ever since. I remembered Post Offices were a POI and The Pipers Son got us to La Poste within a few minutes. After a quick visit to Aldi we were under way and a couple of hours later we landed at our destination at about 5:10. The Aire named Municipal Rochat Belle has only space for 5 vans and there were 3 already there when we arrived, although one drove off shortly after. There is an ASCI site right next door.

Aire Municipal Rochat Belle: 46°49′25″N 01°41′41″E

As it was only an overnight stopping point on route to Oradour-sur-Glande we realaxed for the evening without feeling the need to go out exploring. We spent the rest of the evening planning tomorrow's route, reading and browsing the net. Our mifi package from 3 seems to be working well and our 20gig allowance when mixed with the time we pick up wifi seems as if it will give us an abundance of data making it easy to keep in touch with home. The sweet life.

22 October 2016

We woke in darkness to a pea-souper. We were on the road nice and early and Tom the sear of all sears had us on the motorway within 10 minutes. We dove in and out of thick fog and bright sunshine for the next hour. We had set his coordinates for Ardour-sur-Glane and arrived just in time for lunch with the sun cracking the flags. Our first hot day since leaving Dover.

We spent a couple of hours looking round what is known as the Martyr Town. On the 10th of June 1944 the Nazi's burned the town and massacred its 642 inhabitants, shouting the men and locking the women and children in the church and then setting fire to it. The ruins of the town are being preserved as a reminder of the atrocities of that day. The graveyard at the top of the town is filled with photographs of the men, women and children. It was a very sobering experience but worth a visit.

Oradour-sur-Glane Car Park: 45°55′53"N 01°02′01"E. There is a small aire about 200 yards up the street. Much flatter than the car park but no services.

In the afternoon we headed for an Aire in Chalus and passed another one which we spotted from the road about 2km before our intended destination. We were particularly heading to the further one because of its services which included showers. It was part of a fuel station and cafe complex with an Intermarche Supermarket right next door. Unfortunately the cafe was closed till the end of the month and so was the showers.

We headed back to the first Aire which was very pretty but with only limited services and whilst sat pondering where to spend the night we received a message from a colleague from Cardington who had built a house in a village called Marval about 20km away saying we could stay there. He generously gave us directions of how to get there, how to switch the water and electricity on and how to access the house and Bob's you Uncle off we went.

A problem with the boiler meant we didn't get a proper shower but that's another story. We did get to meet Steve's neighbours who showed us round their property which was a house with barn attached which they were in the process of renovating. It was a fascinating project they had undertaken as was Steve's house. They also plied us with plenty of vino and the promise of a hot shower the following morning. Happy campers and sweet dreams.

23 October 2016

We slept well and again woke in darkness. We had some breakfast and then had another go at getting Steve's immersion heater working so we could have a hot shower. We ended up boiling a few kettle fills of water and sort of having a shower.

We had a brew with Bob and Pauline before leaving chateaubooth.fr and heading back toward Chalus being directed by Tom. We then set a course for Montignac and were making good progress until we came across a diversion sign which at first we ignored. When we got to the next village the road was closed for the Sunday market and we had to turn back. Between Val and the Pipers Son, they managed to get us back on track after spending about 45 minutes negotiating single track roads too many to count. We finally arrived in Montignac and got to stretch our legs and have a look around the beautiful town.

We were in two minds deciding to stop for the night or move on and the second choice won. We got to Beynac-de-Cazanac with enough time to explore the Chateau and the area around it.

We were back in the van before it got dark enjoying a slow cooked chicken that Val had done the last time we had electricity. We washed it down with a can or two of a refreshing Karlsquell and and a drop of vino. La Vida Loca