Sunday 30 October 2016

Week 9

24 October 2016
Still a week to go before we need to get to Benicasim and only just over 800km away.

Today was our first rainy day. We drove to Domme and as forecast the rain stopped for two hours between 11:00 and 1:00. We got back to the van just as it was starting again after a good look round the walled town.

Our next stop was Gourdon. We were heading to a municipal aire, there were 8 spaces with electricity for €1 per 3 hours. Unfortunately we arrived just behind another van who got the last spot. Ho well, win a few, loose a few. We still parked up and had a walk round the old town. It was another bastide, fortified medieval town to keep out the English marauders, or so the information board said. It was an interesting spot high up above the new town with great views all around. One bit of luck was to find a Boulangerie still open for us to buy a baguette.

We walked back to the van with the slight hope that one of the vans had driven off and left us a space with electricity, but no joy. Not to worry, there was plenty of life in the leisure batteries. Not long after we got back the French couple who arrived just before us chapped our door and said we could plug into their electric, how generous. I offered to let them piggy back our wifi but they hadn't got a tablet. The language was fun. It wasn't French and it wasn't English, it was the universal language of the world.

Val cooked dinner on electric and we charged all devices. We watched a video on the electric rather than using the leisure batteries. We had a little drink to celebrate. Happy days.
Aire Municipal Gourdon: 44°44′02"N 01°23′07"E








25 October 2016
We were greeted to a misty morning in Gourdon. Our first stop was Lidl to stock up on some supplies and to purchase some wine and fizz that Steve and his neighbours had been bigging up. Once accomplished we plotted a course to St-Cirq Lapopie on the banks of the Lot River. 

We had a stop off on route at a beautiful village called Cabrerets. We parked up and had an hour looking around. It was in a basin with steep cliffs on both sides and a river running through it. We took oodles of photographs which confirms the beauty of its scenery. 

Onwards for another 14km and we were Parking up on our chosen Aire. The services when we arrived were not as anticipated. The shower was disgusting. The village of St-Cirq Lapopie more than made up for it. After donning our shorts we walked along the river and then climbed the hill up to the village and Chateau. The place was packed with tourists even at this time of year. 
St-Cirq Lapopie Aire - 44°28′12"N 01°40′44"E

On our return to the van we sat out and had some crisps and a beer. We befriended an inquisitive and hungry magpie who after finishing our crisps made an effort to eat my boots. When the sun was going down he even followed us back to the van and perched himself on our bike rack looking in through the back window. He stayed there for about half an hour before moving on. 

Val made us a curry for dinner and we settled in for a night of reading and some good old Kev Music. Happy days, well for me at least. 








26 October 2016
We woke to another misty morning and had another visit from our friendly magpie. He doesn't half like our crisps. 

We were way by 9:30 heading for Montauban about 70km away. As we neared our destination the traffic was nose to tail over 3km out. We quickly went to plan b which was to head for Trebes. We drove through some beautiful countryside and the mountain villages of Saissac and Montolieu were stunning. We reached our intended site only to find it had closed for the winter on the 30 September. 

We parked up on Intermarche whilst we come up with a plan C. The Zendogs mifi came to the rescue and directed us to an Aire in Carcassonne. €12 a night with services extra but close enough to the city to walk in. No sooner had we parked up than we were on our toes and into the city. We had planned to do it tomorrow but he ho. It had the biggest Chateau I've ever seen, it was stunning and took a good hour to walk round. We also had a look at part of the city, so much so that Val was happy not to return in the morning. 

We got back to the van well after dark and Val got stuck into cooking dinner whilst I updated the blog. Dinner, a good read and keeping track of the footy is tonight's entertainment. 
Aire Camping de La Cite - €12 - 43°12′00" N 02°21′10″E









27 October 2016
We left Carcassonne on a cold Autumn morning heading to Limoux. After calling at Lidl for some supplies we got done to the real business of our visit. We Stopped at Domaine J Laurens to taste their Blanquette and Cremant. Val has been reading about the quality of their wines prior to our trip and was determined we pay the place a visit. The Blanquette was what she had been reading about and it tasted delicious. Its made up 90% of the Mausac grape which gives it an unusual taste. We preferred it to the Cremant and bought a case to take with us. Job done. 

Our next task was to find our campsite which is not always easy at this time of the year. We got to a spot in Chalabre in bright sunshine and although the site was open with two vans already set up, the shower block was all locked up which was a shame because as we drive through village it looked to have a lot of charm and character. We would have loved to have stayed but we had an alternative with all the facilities. 

After another 24km along mainly winding single track roads we arrived at another small village called Bènaix at campsite called Camping Rural le'Mathibot, rural being the operative word. We drove up a steep lane with trepidation and arrived at the main house. There were showers, toilets, washing machine. There was even an outdoor pool but it looked like Steptoe's yard. The toilets and showers were clean and we immediately made the decision to stay. Getting onto a pitch was another matter. 

The pitches were up a very steep winding lane made up of gravel. It was an adventure in itself trying to get up the lane. I managed to get about two thirds of the way there but the last bend and hill proved too much and the van kept sliding back. The friendly Belgian couple who owned the site let us park the van in Steptoe's yard. They even moved their cars to accommodate us. 

It was a busy afternoon after that. The washing machine got put to good use even though it had a two hour cycle. It was gig and at €3 a pop it was cheap and we managed two washes. The van which was filthy from its travels got a good wash. All the devices got charged and the slow cooker was used to make use of the electric. We just about managed a short walk before the sun went down, we even did some apple picking which consisted of throwing the apples that had already fallen up into the tree to dislodge the fresh ones that were still hanging. We managed to get three for all our efforts.
The rest of the evening was spent looking for a campsite for February when the boys are coming out to stay with us for a week. As we only had 3G wifi it was a frustrating task especially as every site we liked the look of said no availability and some of them would only search to the end of 2016. All in all it was an interesting day, one of them you will never forget. Happy trails. 
Camping Rural le'Mathibot - €16 - 42°54′18″N 01°49′59″E





28 October 2016
We woke after 9:00 and had a busy morning drying clothes and cleaning the inside of the van. By the time we had kissed Letasha goodbye it was after noon. 

Our first stop was Mirepoix. A beautiful little village with a magnificent Cathedral. When we entered we heard what we thought was piped music but it turned out to be a guy singing with an operatic voice. He was absolutely fantastic, real quality. We spent some time walking round the shops and the Square. We would happily have stayed the night but for wanting to make some progress south. 

Our next stop was Foix, famous for its hilltop Chateau and what a sight it was, our photographs don't do it justice. We just caught the end of the market but we're too late for the food stalls which had all packed up. We had a good walk round the town in temperatures of 24°C. Let's hope it's as warm in Spain. 

We headed further south to a little village called Mèrens les Vals but the Aire we wanted to use had little metal barriers on each parking spot. It was only €5 to make them come down which would have allowed us to park but we couldn't pay as the signs were in French only and we hadn't a clue what to do. 

We moved further south and ended up at a tiny hamlet called Hospitalet pres l'Andorre on the border of Andorra. The aire is next to a train station with a number of waterfalls just behind. The first train through is 05:52 in the morning so hopefully we'll have an earlier start tomorrow. We are well up in the Pyrenees and have had fun with some of the switchbacks, they certainly keep you on your toes. 
Free Aire Hospitalet pres l'Andorre - 42°35′19″N 01°47′58"E

Val's slow cooked dish from last night was scrummy and we washed it down with a delicious bottle of €1.99 French Merlot. Happy campers, well at least till 05:52. 








29 October 2016
We woke to a fresh morning. The sun was shining but the high mountains were keeping us well in the shade. The train station was still closed when we left about 10:30

We set Tom's coordinates for the Andorra de Vella but when we arrived there was no chance of parking. All the car parks were either barred to Camping Cars or they were in buildings with height barriers. The whole place was high rise and busy as hell with traffic. We reverted to plan B and headed to the only Aire in the principality at a place called Sant Julia de Loria, parking up in good order for €0.50 an hour when we arrived. First hour free. We spent about 90 minutes walking round before departing. We had to summon help from a voice box in the wall as we couldn't get our ticket to lift the exit barrier. After a few hola's, some sign language and a gratsia or two me managed to get out of the aire which doubled as a car park. 

We then got down to the business of our visit which was buying fuel and duty free booze. It was like going back in time. A litre bottle of Sobrano Brandy was €4. After filling our boots we got back on the road and headed in the general direction of Benicasim with no intention of getting there for two or three days. We ended up stopping at a small aire in Carvera which was just a small town on route. 

No sooner had we parked yo than an English couple parked next to us. They showed us their van. They told us where they had come from and where they were going to and they would still be telling us things now if Val hadn't interrupted saying we needed to get into town. When we left them we both felt drained. 

After our unnecessary walk into town we snuck back entering the van on their blindside. And relax. 

One surprise was that we have had two emails from Purple Properties in two days. One letting us know our new tenants move in on Monday and the second was an inventory of the house. 

We had some good nosebag and a movie and if anybody had chapped the door we were going to mark the go up and down and make agh, agh, agh noises. Happy Spanish sunsets. 





30 October 2016
We went to bed last night in a pea-souper and woke in the same conditions for our first morning in Spain. The sun was doing its best to burn away the fog. It's going to be a hot one. 

We drove in fog for about half an hour and then climbed out of it into bright sunshine at about half eleven heading for Montblanc, although when we arrived the Aire we were going to park on, it cost €10 and as we only wanted to look round we moved on. 

Our first actual stop was in Tarragona where Val made a fantastic lunch of egg salad on a baguette with a sprinkling of onion. A small bowl of taboule and a few crisps followed by two chocky biscuits and coffee, heaven.

After changing Tom who knows everywhere, to Sean with the Irish accent we followed his directions to Aquéducte de les Fererras. We parked up in poor order with the back of the van sticking out about 2 metres and had a walk round the old aqueduct that used to supply water to the city of Tarragona from about 35km away, it was well worth a visit. 

Sean then guided us to a parking spot by an old museum about 1km from the city centre. We were on our toes and walked up hill into town. We were looking for the Cathedral in the Medieval walled upper town. Gregg's present of The Rough Guide to Spain pointed us in the right direction and gave us some great info on what we were seeing. We probably walked about 3km before we reached the Cathedral and when we got there, a flea market made it hard to photograph without including a white van. It's not just in the U.K. That you find WVM. Unfortunately the Cathedral was closed but it was beautiful from the outside. We then saw the Ajuntament and then onto the Rambla, Casa de la Festa and then the Amfiteatre which was undergoing some restoration. We then got our first glimpse of the Med and felt we had arrived somewhere near our destination. We got well and truly lost on the walk back to the van, but as always Val came up trumps and when we were in the vicinity, she spotted to upper part of the museum. 

Back on the road and heading in the general direction of Benicasim we got the Mifi fired up and Val found us a picturesque spot to head for next to the River Ebre. Sean gave us succinct directions and after about 85km and passing through about 5km of rice fields we were home and hosed and just in time for a beautiful sunset. What a great way to end week 9. Happy sunsets. 
River Ebre free aire: 40°42′50.32″N 00°42′55.5″E



















Monday 24 October 2016

Week 8

17 October 2016
It was a sad start to the day as we had to say goodbye to Solene and the children. We had said goodbye to Gregg the night before as he was up very early for work. Val went to school with the boys and I took Madeleine to nursery.

As soon as we got back it was packing and then making our way to Victoria station to get the train back to Birchington on Sea where we had left the van. We got back mid afternoon and I managed to get a quick haircut before we set off for Dover. It was a Turkish barbers and Val wasn't impressed with the result but it was almost the last chance before the Ferry tomorrow.

Our first stop was at a wild camping spot at St Margaret's at Cliff (51°09′25.16″N 01°23′34.35″E) at the Dover Patrol Monument. We parked up looking across the Chanel towards France. There were signs saying private road and no overnight parking but I would have quite happily stayed, however, we had a couple of alternatives in Dover itself which we decided to take a look at.

We checked out the car park in the town centre which was free between 5pm and 9am which looked good but then we tried the Esplanade which was a beautiful location with a sea View and parking was free between the same times. We decided on the latter taking a risk with the road noise.
Maison Dieu Road Car Park: 51°07′43" N 01°18′41"E
Esplanade: 51°07′15"N 01°18′48"E

We had wifi from the iBoost which seemed to be pointed out to sea. We had the radio to listen to the football. I suppose a clean sheet at Anfield and a point won is a good result. After the foot tie it was in the scratcher for an early bath. Happy campers.






18 October 2016
We woke to a beautiful view of the Chanel after a quiet night on the Esplanade. I would use the same spot again without hesitation. 

We were packed up pretty quickly and joined the queue for the ferry at about 8:45. Our departure time was 10:15 but they let us get the 9:25 sailing which was good because we were going to loose an hour with the time difference. 

We had a calm crossing and disembarked in light rain which quickly turned heavy. It took us about four hours to cover the 220k to Montville close to Rouen avoiding the toll roads. It probably took thirty minutes longer to get there but there was a lot of motorway and dual carriageway. The last 15k was on rural D roads through lovely countryside displaying all the colours of autumn. 

The Tom that knows everything got us exactly to our Aire and we parked up in a level spot in good order amongst the other happy campers.  We had a walk round the small lake and then the village and then watched Pointless on the towns free wifi. 
Montville Aire: 49°32′50″N 01°04′21″E

After dinner we settled in for a night with some reading and some more of the free wifi and I switched the radio on to see what I could pick up. Would you believe I could listen to 5 live no problem. Happy days. 




19 October 2016
We woke late with the hours difference, it was 08:15 in the UK. By the time we had packed up and got on the road it was approaching 11:30, lazy so and so's. 

We headed to Rouen which was only 20k away and followed Tom who knows everywhere to a Lidl with no car park and nowhere to pull in. Then we followed him to a fictitious Aire that was supposed to be 600 metres from the city centre. Third time lucky he lad us to an Aire by the River Seine a short cycle ride from the tourist spots. 

After some lunch we jumped on the bikes into the centre, locked them up and walked round the sites, that were many. Our first stop was Norte Damme Cathedral, there was that much to see we could have stayed all day. We spent the whole afternoon looking round and visited Abbey St-Ouen, Églis Saint-Maclou, Le Vieux Marché which were the main highlights. After that we strolled back to the van picking up some water and crisps on the way. 

We decided to stay the night as it was about 170k to our next destination and it was getting too late to move on. It was a chicken ruby for dinner washed down with a nice vino and a nip of A 12 year old, extra matured Glenmorangie. Tickety Boo, can life get any better?

Rouen Aire: 49°25′46.72″N 01°06′34.51″E

Val's factoid: Richard the Lionheart's heart is buried with his brother in Rouen Cathedral. It was the custom of the time to bury different parts of the body in different places. His entrails and brain are buried in an Abbey in Chattoux and the rest of him is entombed at Fontevraud. 








20 October 2016
We were up reasonably early and on the road at 10:01 following the Piper's son' directions ably assisted by the co-pilot and chief navigator Val. They took us out of Rouen through the Industrialised Zone and we were soon into the countryside with all of its autumn colours. I spotted my first mistletoe of the trip, a common site on French roads. 

Val's factoid: the parasite Mistletoe grows on a range of trees including willow, apple and oak. Mistletoe is a plant that grows on range of trees including willow, apple and oak trees. The tradition of hanging it in the house goes back to the times of the ancient Druids. It is supposed to possess mystical powers which bring good luck to the household and wards off evil spirits. It was also used as a sign of love and friendship in Norse mythology and that's where the custom of kissing under Mistletoe comes from.

After some planning last night we decided to change our route and head for a small aire about 6km from Orleans.  We arrived late after some shopping in Lidl but we did buy our first cans of Finkbrau, 10 for €3.70. 
Aire La Chapelle Saint Mesmin: 47°53′07″N 01°50′22"E

After a good walk first along the Loire River and then into the local village we got back to the van and because of the hour difference Val got to watch Pointless. The rest of the evening was spent enjoying another Chicken Ruby with a bit of extra kick. The Man Utd match was on BT Sport 2 which was available on wifi in a good quality stream. Happy days. 




21 October 2016
We woke in darkness at eight bells. After breakfast we set sail down the river on our bikes and moored in the centre of Orleans old town. The Loire River was just as beautiful as the last time we travelled alongside it. 

We strolled around taking in the sights. From the outside, the Cathedral looked magnificent and it was just as good on the inside. I was happy that it was out of season otherwise the tourists would have been tenfold. 

We had a look at the famous Hotel Groslot, inside the splendour of days gone by was still there for all to see. Then it was off to find the statue of Joan of Arc astride her trusty steed. 

We got lost cycling back to the van on the road and were rescued by the sight of some towering cranes that we walked past yesterday. I spotted them from the main road and with the odd deviation we were home and dry. 

After a late lunch and about 5 minutes before our 24 hour parking expired we set coordinates for an Aire at Chatearoux about 140km away. Val had the barrier lifted with a couple of minutes to spare and we were out heading for La Poste. We bought a postcard in Rouen and have been searching for a post box ever since. I remembered Post Offices were a POI and The Pipers Son got us to La Poste within a few minutes. After a quick visit to Aldi we were under way and a couple of hours later we landed at our destination at about 5:10. The Aire named Municipal Rochat Belle has only space for 5 vans and there were 3 already there when we arrived, although one drove off shortly after. There is an ASCI site right next door. 
Aire Municipal Rochat Belle: 46°49′25″N 01°41′41″E

As it was only an overnight stopping point on route to Oradour-sur-Glande we realaxed for the evening without feeling the need to go out exploring. We spent the rest of the evening planning tomorrow's route, reading and browsing the net. Our mifi package from 3 seems to be working well and our 20gig allowance when mixed with the time we pick up wifi seems as if it will give us an abundance of data making it easy to keep in touch with home. The sweet life. 







22 October 2016
We woke in darkness to a pea-souper.  We were on the road nice and early and Tom the sear of all sears had us on the motorway within 10 minutes. We dove in and out of thick fog and bright sunshine for the next hour. We had set his coordinates for Ardour-sur-Glane and arrived just in time for lunch with the sun cracking the flags. Our first hot day since leaving Dover. 

We spent a couple of hours looking round what is known as the Martyr Town. On the 10th of June 1944 the Nazi's burned the town and massacred its 642 inhabitants, shouting the men and locking the women and children in the church and then setting fire to it. The ruins of the town are being preserved as a reminder of the atrocities of that day. The graveyard at the top of the town is filled with photographs of the men, women and children. It was a very sobering experience but worth a visit. 
Oradour-sur-Glane Car Park: 45°55′53"N 01°02′01"E. There is a small aire about 200 yards up the street. Much flatter than the car park but no services. 

In the afternoon we headed for an Aire in Chalus and passed another one which we spotted from the road about 2km before our intended destination. We were particularly heading to the further one because of its services which included showers. It was part of a fuel station and cafe complex with an Intermarche Supermarket right next door. Unfortunately the cafe was closed till the end of the month and so was the showers. 

We headed back to the first Aire which was very pretty but with only limited services and whilst sat pondering where to spend the night we received a message from a colleague from Cardington who had built a house in a village called Marval about 20km away saying we could stay there. He generously gave us directions of how to get there, how to switch the water and electricity on and how to access the house and Bob's you Uncle off we went. 

A problem with the boiler meant we didn't get a proper shower but that's another story. We did get to meet Steve's neighbours who showed us round their property which was a house with barn attached which they were in the process of renovating. It was a fascinating project they had undertaken as was Steve's house. They also plied us with plenty of vino and the promise of a hot shower the following morning. Happy campers and sweet dreams. 






23 October 2016
We slept well and again woke in darkness. We had some breakfast and then had another go at getting Steve's immersion heater working so we could have a hot shower. We ended up boiling a few kettle fills of water and sort of having a shower. 

We had a brew with Bob and Pauline before leaving chateaubooth.fr and heading back toward Chalus being directed by Tom. We then set a course for Montignac and were making good progress until we came across a diversion sign which at first we ignored. When we got to the next village the road was closed for the Sunday market and we had to turn back. Between Val and the Pipers Son, they managed to get us back on track after spending about 45 minutes negotiating single track roads too many to count. We finally arrived in Montignac and got to stretch our legs and have a look around the beautiful town. 

We were in two minds deciding to stop for the night or move on and the second choice won. We got to Beynac-de-Cazanac with enough time to explore the Chateau and the area around it. 

We were back in the van before it got dark enjoying a slow cooked chicken that Val had done the last time we had electricity. We washed it down with a can or two of a refreshing Karlsquell and and a drop of vino. La Vida Loca










Today           Totals Per Day Averages
Days 53
Miles Driven 1546  29
Fuel Spend £313.00 £5.91
Camping Spend         £481.46 £9.08
Total Spend Fuel/Camping £794.46 £14.99
                         Date
Start Mileage 22568 1 Sep 2016
Mileage 24114         23 Oct 2016
Miles Driven 1546